twittynursery

What Can I Plant Next?

Fri, 10 Oct 2025 15:29:15 GMT

Moisture-Loving Beauties for Your Garden

Shrubs:

Autumn Brilliance Fern

Daylily

Hosta

Snow N’ Summer Jasmine

Henry Garnet Sweet Spirea

Foxtail Fern

Asian Jasmine

Elephant Ear

Daylily

Trees:

Willow

Bald Cypress

Swamp White Oak

Wildfire Blackgum

Willow Oak

Sycamore

Tulip Poplar

Red Maple

Pin Oak

Nuttall Oak

Simplify Your Space with Easygoing Plants

Low-maintenance plants make landscaping simple. They’re drought tolerant once established, naturally resist pests and disease, and bring lasting beauty without the extra work. Spend less time maintaining, and more time enjoying your space.

Shrubs:

Dwarf Youpon Holly

Compacta Holly

Mondo Grass

Yucca

Ornamental Grass

Hostas

Distylium

Prickly Pear

Bridal Spirea

Japanese Yew

Trees:

Bald Cypress

Bur Oak

Crape Myrtle

Bloodgood Japanese Maple

Weeping Willow

Ruby Falls Red Bud

Autumn Blaze Maple

Jane Magnolia Tree

Wax Myrtle

Block the View, Not the Beauty

Using a natural screen barrier is a beautiful and eco-friendly way to add privacy to your space. Unlike fences or walls, living screens like shrubs and trees provide year-round interest, help block wind and noise, and create a habitat for birds and pollinators. They also improve air quality and blend seamlessly into the landscape, making your outdoor space feel more peaceful, private, and connected to nature.

Shrubs:

Elagnus

Japanese Yew

Oakland Holly

Waxleaf Ligustrum

White by the Gate Camellia

Pampas Grass

Greensboro Red Camellia

Needlepoint Holly

Cleyera

Forsythia

Trees:

Nellie R Stevens

Leyland Cypress

Green Giant Arborvitae

Eastern Red Cedar

Ruby Falls Red Bud

Autumn Blaze Maple

Jane Magnolia Tree

Wax Myrtle

Blueberry Plant Care

Fri, 10 Oct 2025 15:09:06 GMT

Sunlight:

Blueberries thrive best in full sun, but some varieties can tolerate partial shade and still produce well.

Soil:

Acidic Soil - pH between 4.5-5.5

Watering:

Keep soil consistently moist, but not soggy. Water deeply 1-2 times per week, more often during hot or dry periods.

Fertilizing:

Use a fertilizer for acid-loving plants. Apply fertilizer depending on the kind of fertilizer and always follow fertilizer instructions.

Pruning:

Prune in late winter before new growth begins. Focus on removing older wood,as blueberry plants primarily produce fruit on newer growth.

Pollination:

Plant at least two different varieties for better yields and bigger berries.

Mulching:

2–4 inches of mulch (pine needles, bark, or sawdust) to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.

What are Bagworms?

Fri, 10 Oct 2025 14:57:30 GMT

Bagworms are insects that eat many types of trees and shrubs, but they cause the most damage to evergreens like juniper, arborvitae, spruce, and pine. The first sign of trouble is usually brown or dying needles at the ends of branches. This happens when young bagworms start feeding. If there are a lot of them. they can strip the plant of all its leaves or needles. which can stress or even kill the plant. Even a small number of bagworms can make the plant look unhealthy and slow down its growth. Evergreens are hit the hardest. because once their needles fall off. they don't grow back like some other plants do.

How to Treat:

Insecticides work best when used early in the bagworm's life cycle. To prevent early damage. apply treatments between late May and mid-June. when the bagworms are still small (underó inch long). If you wait too long and spray later in the summer, the bagworms are bigger and harder to kill-so the treatment won't work as well. By late August. it's usually too late to treat them because the bagworms stop eating and seal themselves inside their bags to pupate. but you can still treat them.

What chemicals should I use?

Lower-risk Insecticides:

Insecticides made with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). spinosad, neem oil (azadirachtin), or insecticidal soaps. These are effective on young bagworm caterpillars, though you may need to reapply them more than once. These products are also less harmful to beneficial insects.

Stronger Insecticides:

Insecticides that can be used on ornamental plants. including acephate. bifenthrin. carbaryl, malathion. permethrin. and several others.

Important:

Some insecticides can damage certain plants. Always read the product label carefully to make sure it's safe for the plant you're treating and that it's approved for use against bagworms. Always make sure to follow chemical instructions.

Alternative Bagworm Control

Manual Control: On smaller trees and shrubs, you can manage bagworms by removing the bags by hand in winter or early spring. before the eggs hatch. To make sure they don't come back. crush the bags or soak them in soapy water. Don't just drop them on the ground-if live larvae are inside. they could crawl back to the plants.

Natural Predators: Bagworms have natural enemies like parasitoid wasps and tachinid flies that help control them by feeding on them during the caterpillar or pupal stage. A study from the University of Illinois found that planting flowers like asters and daisies near trees and shrubs with bagworms can attract these helpful insects and lower bagworm populations. These flowering plants provide natural predators with the nectar and pollen they need for energy and reproduction.

Ensure Your Plants are Winter Ready

Tue, 04 Feb 2025 15:24:38 GMT

Water In Plants

Before freezing temperatures arrive (under 30 degrees) , ensure the soil around your plants remains adequately moist and water in to protect roots.

Do Not Fertilize

Avoid applying fertilizer in late fall, as it encourages new growth that is vulnerable to winter damage, as it stimulates tender new growth that is unlikely to survive harsh winter conditions, potentially weakening the plant overall.

Avoid Pruning

Avoid pruning shrubs in the fall, as it can stimulate new growth that may not withstand winter conditions. However, for trees it’s recommended to prune trees while dormant. if trees or large shrubs have weak or dead limbs that pose a risk of falling onto roofs or structures during winter, it is advisable to remove these.

Mulch Plants

Not all plants require protection. from low winter temperatures, buttender perennials and newly planted shrubs or trees benefit from extra insulation. Winter mulch acts as a protective layer for root systems,

helping stabilize soil temperatures and reducing the risk of damage caused by freezing and thawing cycles. These cycles can force shallow-rooted plants' roots closer to the surface, where they are more vulnerable to cold weather.

Cover Plants

When heavy snow or ice is forecast, cover plants with burlap, canvas, or old sheets for protection. Secure the cover at the base using stakes, rocks, bricks, or logs to prevent it from being blown away by winter winds. Once the threat has passed, remove the cover and shake off any snow or ice; As it can damage fragile, multi-branched trees and shrubs by breaking limbs and twigs. Support them by gently bundling the branches together with string or twine.

Do I Need to Repot My Plant?

Tue, 04 Feb 2025 15:24:35 GMT

Things to Look For:

If the plant starts drying out quickly between waterings, it might be time to repot.

Plants that become top-heavy and tend to tip over, especially when dry, likely need repotting.

Small leaf growth and minimal new growth are signs that the plant needs a new pot.

Is it acceptable for some plants to become rootbound?

It’s often best to be cautious with repotting. Slightly rootbound plants stay smaller and more manageable. Increase pot size gradually as the plant grows.

Should I Trim Circling Roots?

Yes, slightly trim roots circling roots with a box cutter or a small knife.

When is the Best Time to Repot?

Repotting stimulates new growth, so it’s best done in late winter as plants awaken with increasing light levels.

Tree and Shrub Planting

Mon, 03 Feb 2025 20:02:46 GMT

How to Plant:

Dig a hole wide enough for the root ball and as deep as the plant container.

If the soil needs improvement, mix in compost or potting soil. Fill the hole about one-third of the way with this mixture. Gently remove the plant from its container and place it into the hole. If the plant sits too low, add more soil mixture beneath it to adjust the height. The top of the plant’s soil should be about 2 inches above the surrounding ground level.

Backfill the hole with compost or potting soil. When removing the plant from its container, handle it carefully to avoid damaging the root ball. For plants with delicate root systems, lay the container on its side and gently pull it away from the root ball.

After planting, immediately saturate the root ball with a root stimulator mixture, following the product’s instructions. Water thoroughly to ensure the solution reaches the root ball.

How to Grow & Care for Your Garden

Mon, 03 Feb 2025 19:41:03 GMT

Choosing the Right Plant

Light Conditions

When planting keep your soil type in mind if your soil needs to be amended do so. When planting make sure the root ball is above level ground by 2 inches to prevent rot root or fungus.

Climate

Consider your local climate and weather you’ll be keeping the plant indoors or outdoors. Some plants are more suited to specific temperature ranges.

Space

Evaluate the size of the area where you want to place the plant. Make sure the plant will have enough space to grow without overcrowding.

Soil & Drainage

Different plants have different soil & drainage needs. Make sure you can provide the right conditions for your plant.

Maintenance Level

Determine how much time & effort you’re willing to invest in plant care. Some plants require regular watering & pruning, while others are more low-maintenance.

Choose the Right Soil

Choosing the right soil is crucial for your plants.

Understand Your Plant's Needs

Different plants require different soil types. Research the specific needs of your plants.

Consider Soil Type

Sandy Soil: Drains quickly,good for drought-tolerant plants.
Clay Soil: Retains moisture, but can be heavy; good for moisture-loving plants.
Loamy Soil: A balanced mix of sand, silt and clay; fertile and well-draining. Great for most garden plants.
Peaty Soil: High in organic matter; retains moisture and is often acidic. suitable for acid-loving plants.

Watering

Proper watering is essential for a plant's health.

Check Soil Moisture

Feel the soil: Stick your finger about an inch into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If it’s still moist, wait.

Time of Day

Morning watering: watering in the morning helps reduce evaporation and allows plants to absorb moisture before the heat of the day.
Evening watering: If you must water in the evening, do so early enough to allow leaves to dry by nightfall to prevent disease.

Adjust for Plant Type

Different Needs: understand the specific watering needs of your plant; Some may prefer moist soil while others prefer drier.
Seasonal Changes: Adjust your watering schedule with the season, as plants often requires less water in cooler months.

Watch for Signs of Over- or Under-watering

Overwatering: Look for yellow leaves, wilting or root rot.
Under watering: Signs include drooping leaves, dry soil, and brown leaf edges.

Lighting

The amount of sunlight shrubs receive is crucial to their health and appearance. Each type of shrub has specific sunlight needs that can affect its growth, foliage, and flowering potential.

Full Sun

Requirements: 6+ hours of direct sunlight daily.
Best For: Flowering shrubs (like roses, lilacs, and butterfly bushes) that produce vibrant blooms and need plenty of light.
Benefits: Full sun enhances blooming and keeps growth compact and healthy. Full-sun shrubs are also typically more drought-tolerant.

Partial Sun/Partial Shade Shrub

Requirements: 3-6 hours of sunlight, preferably in the morning or filtered throughout the day.
Best For: Shade-tolerant flowering shrubs, such as hydrangeas, azaleas, and rhododendrons.
Benefits: Partial sun is ideal for shrubs that need some protection from intense afternoon heat, helping to maintain color and reduce stress.

Full Shade Shrub

Requirements: Less than 3 hours of direct sunlight or filtered light throughout the day.
Best For: Shade-loving shrubs like hosta, and certain types of ferns that thrive under trees or against shaded walls.
Benefits: Shade-tolerant shrubs can handle low light without losing their lush appearance, making them perfect for shaded borders and woodland areas.

Fertilizing

Fertilizing helps plants thrive by providing essential nutrients for strong growth, vibrant blooms, and increased resistance to disease.

Know Your Plant's Needs

Different plants have different nutrient requirements.

Nitrogen (N): Promotes leafy growth.
Phosphorus (P): Supports root and flower development.
Potassium (K): Enhances overall plant health.

Choose the Right Fertilizer Type

Organic Fertilizers: (compost, manure, bone meal) Release nutrients slowly and improve soil health.

Synthetic Fertilizers: Provide quick results with specific nutrient formulas but may require more frequent applications.

Timing

Growing Season: Fertilize during active growing season (Spring-Summer)
Frequency: Depending on the type of fertilizer, you may need to apply every few weeks.

How to Fertilize

Apply Fertilizer Seasonally

Spring:

Fertilize most plants as they start their growing season to encourage leaf and root growth.

Summer:

Apply a balanced fertilizer for continued growth, but reduce frequency if plants slow down in heat.

Fall:

Use a low-nitrogen fertilizer for perennials to support root strength over foliage.

Winter:

Avoid fertilizing; most plants are dormant and don’t need extra nutrients.

Application Method

Granular Fertilizer:

Spread it on the soil evenly a long drip line.

Liquid Fertilizer:

Dilute according to the package instructions and apply directly to the soil or as a foliar spray.

Slow-Release Fertilizer:

Mix into the soil for long-lasting effects.

Amount

Follow Recommendations: Follow guidelines provided on the fertilizer package for the appropriate amount based on plant type and size.
Over-Fertilizing Risks : Too much fertilizer can harm plants, causing leaf burn or nutrient imbalances.

Fertilizing

Fertilizing helps plants thrive by providing essential nutrients for strong growth, vibrant blooms, and increased resistance to disease.

Use the Right Tool

Invest in sharp, clean pruning shears, loppers, and saws. Clean tools to prevent disease.

Know the Plant

Research specific needs for each plant type, as some thrive with heavy pruning while others prefer minimal intervention.

Timing is Key

Prune at the right time of the year. For most plants, late winter or early spring is ideal before new growth start.

Observe Growth Patterns

Look for areas where growth is dense or inward-facing and target those for trimming to improve airflow and light penetration.

Pruning Techniques

Thin Out Crowded Areas

Remove some branches to reduce congestion and promote healthier growth.

Cut Just Above a Node

Make cuts just above a leaf node (where leaves attach to the stem) to encourage new growth.

Angle Cuts

When cutting branches, make angled cuts to help water run off & prevent rot.

Remove Dead or Diseased Wood

Always cut away dead, damaged, or diseased branches to improve plant health.

Shape Wisely

Maintain a natural shape by cutting back longer branches.

How to Water Your Plants

Mon, 03 Feb 2025 18:05:09 GMT

How to water your plants, trees & shrubs in the ground:

1st Week of Planting:

On the first day of planting, water after planting. Then skip one day and water the following day. (Every other day on the first week of planting in the ground.)

2nd Week of Planting:

Water every third day after planting.

(Twice a week.)

3rd Week of Planting:

Water every fourth day after planting.

(Once or twice a week.)

4th Week of Planting:

Water every fifth day after planting.

(Once a week.)

Pro Tips

Understand the specific watering needs of your plant; some may prefer moist soil while others prefer drier.

Adjust your watering schedule with the season; as plans often require less water in cooler months.

Rose Care Tips

Mon, 03 Feb 2025 17:49:51 GMT

Types of Roses:

Climbing: 3' x 14-30'
Drift: 1.5' x 3'

Floribunda: 3.5' x 4'

Grandiflora: 4' x 3'
Hybrid Tea: 3-6' x 2-3'

Knockout: 3-4.5’ x 3-4.5’

Landsca p e Shrub: 3.5-6’ x 3-5’

Tips

Roses thrive in full sun, requiring 6–7 hrs of sunlight daily. The best planting season is January & February, as this allows the plants to establish roots before they begin to leaf out in spring. Planting during this time gives them a strong start, as the soil is typically cooler & moist ideal conditions for root growth. However, roses can be planted at any time of the year.Roses thrive in soil with a pH of 6 to 7, with an ideal level of 6.5.

How to plant Roses:

When planting keep your soil type in mind if your soil needs to be amended do so. When planting make sure the root ball is above level ground by 2 inches to prevent rot root or fungus.

How to care for your Roses:

Fertilizing:

Feed your roses starting March to following your fertilizer instructions.

Pruning:

There are two types of pruning;removing the flowers (deadheading) & once a year on Valentine’s Day with a heavy pruning. First remove all weak & dead twigs. Always cut above the node at a 45 degree angle.

Pro Tips

Sprayer Use:

A pump-up sprayer is recommended.
Avoid leaving chemicals in the sprayer after use.

Seasonal Adjustments:

Reduce spraying during hot summer months following chemical instructions.

Watering Systems:

Avoid overhead watering to minimize fungal leaf issues.
Use drip irrigation as the best method for watering roses.

Disease Tips:

Black Spot Control:

Apply Ortho Funginex or Benomyl sprays weekly.

Powdery Mildew:

Use Fungaway to manage outbreaks.

Fertilization and Insect Control:

Fertilome Systemic Rose Food reduces most insect issues.

If pests like budworms, aphids, or thrips appear, apply Orthene.

If systemic rose food is not used, apply Orthenex (a combined fungicide and insecticide) every other spraying.

Spider Mites:

Treat with Kelthane if needed.

Types of Diseases

Black Spot

Diseases in humid, wet climates, black spot is a common issue for roses. This fungal disease appears as circular black spots on the leaves. While it can be frustrating to see your rose’s beautiful green foliage affected, it’s generally not a major threat to the plant’s overall health. Though some leaves may falloff, black spot typically does not harm the rose in the long run. To minimize its impact, remove any infected leaves and stems. This helps the plant focus on producing fresh, healthy growth. Be sure to disinfect your pruning tools after trimming to avoid spreading the disease to other plants.

The best way to prevent black spot is by watering your roses at the base rather than overhead. Water left on the leaves creates an environment where fungal diseases can thrive. Roses also prefer deep, infrequent watering, which encourages strong root growth and reduces the chances of disease

Cercospora

Cercospora is characterized by dark, circular spots that appear on the upper surface of rose leaves. These spots are usually smaller than those caused by black spot and have more defined, sharper edges, unlike the diffuse borders of black spot. This disease tends to thrive in hot, humid conditions and is more prevalent during such weather. Unlike other common rose diseases, the affected leaves often remain on the plant for a longer period before eventually falling off.

Downy Mildew

Downy mildew thrives in cool, damp conditions and is recognized by dark,angular lesions on the upper surfaces of rose leaves. This disease can cause rapid defoliation, sometimes in as little as 3–4 days. It's crucial to monitor your roses closely if you spot early signs of downy mildew to prevent it from spreading and damaging the plant.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is a common issue for roses, especially in the cooler, wetter spring and fall months. This fungal disease appears as a soft, white coating on the stems, leaves, and buds of the plant. It typically develops during overcast days with high humidity and mild temperatures. Fortunately, powdery mildew tends to be less of a problem during the hot, sunny days of summer, and improved weather often allows it to dissipate onits own. However, here are some steps you can take to address it:

Applying horticultural oil can help smother the spores and slow thespread. It’s most effective when used at the first sign of symptoms, such as slight upward curling of the leaves.
Trim back the most affected areas and allow fresh, healthy growth to emerge.

Rust

Roses grown in west coast climates are particularly vulnerable to rust, a condition that thrives in cool, damp environments characterized by rain, fog,or mist. However, rust can also develop on roses in other regions when the right conditions occur.

This disease is identified by orangish-red spots resembling rust, which typically appear first on the underside of the leaves. As it progresses, the spots may spread to the upper leaf surfaces.

To minimize the spread of rust, it’s crucial to promptly remove infected leaves and canes. Be sure to dispose of these materials in sealed garbage bags, as adding them to compost or leaving them nearby can facilitate further spread. For severe infestations, you might consider applying a synthetic or natural fungicide to manage the problem effectively.

Rose Rosette Disease

Rose Rosette Disease (RRD) is caused by a tiny, windborne Eriophyid mite and can affect all hybrid roses. Symptoms include red growth, excessive thorn development, elongated shoots, deformed blooms, and flexible canes.

Currently, there is no known cure for RRD. However, our team is collaborating with other institutions to research and combat this disease. Annual pruning in early spring can help reduce the risk of infection.

If you suspect your roses are infected, promptly remove and dispose of them in a sealed plastic trash bag. Avoid composting, adding to yard waste piles, orburning the infected plants, as burning can cause mites to spread by“ballooning” to nearby plants. After completely clearing the infected plant and its roots from the area, you can safely replant in that space.

Juniper Care Tips

Mon, 03 Feb 2025 16:01:48 GMT

Types of Juniper:

Blue Atlas: 40-60’ x 30-40’
Canaerti: 620-50’ x 8-15’

Eastern Red Cedar: 35-40’ x 15-20’
Taylor: 30' x 3'

Saybrook Gold: 2-3' x 6'

Tips

The best time to plant junipers is in spring or fall, when moderate temperatures and ample rainfall support root establishment. Common junipers are low-maintenance,hardy shrubs that thrive in various conditions, including poor soils, dry areas, and urban environments with pollution. For optimal growth, provide them with moist, well-draining soil and plenty of sunlight. Juniper trees thrive in soil that is moderately acidic to slightly alkaline, with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.5.

How to plant Junipers:

When planting keep your soil type in mind if your soil needs to be amended do so. When planting make sure the root ball is above level ground by 2 inches to prevent root rot or fungus.

How to care for your Junipers:

Fertilizing:

When planted in ideal conditions,junipers require minimal to no additional fertilizer. If needed, apply an all-purpose slow-release fertilizer in early spring. Follow the instructions to spread the fertilizer around the root zone and water thoroughly.

Pruning:

Junipers don’t need heavy pruning,but if shaping is necessary, they can be lightly pruned in late winter after the coldest weather has passed.

Pro Tips

Sprayer Use:

A pump-up sprayer is recommended.
Avoid leaving chemicals in the sprayer after use.

Seasonal Adjustments:

Reduce spraying during hot summer months following chemical instructions.

Watering Systems:

Avoid overhead watering to minimize fungal leaf issues.
Use drip irrigation as the best method for watering.

Types of Diseases

Tip Blight

Identify: Young growth is more susceptible to infection, while mature, darker green foliage remains resistant. Infected twigs initially turn pale, then reddish-brown, and eventually die, becoming brown.Scraping the bark reveals a clear boundary between dead, discolored wood and healthy tissue.Disease often develops during spring or summer growth flushes under warm, wet conditions.

Treatment: Inspect plants thoroughly, as symptoms of tip and twig blight may also result from drought, overwatering, or root damage. Choose disease-resistant varieties and plant them in well-drained, sunny locations with good air circulation. Avoid crowding, shaded areas, and sprinkler irrigation. Promptly remove diseased or browning branches. Pruning is usually sufficient for control,except in highly susceptible cultivars. If needed, apply fungicides such as mancozeb, thiophanate-methyl, or copper-based products before infection occurs. Always follow label instructions.

Bag Worm

Identify: Caterpillar feeding causes needle loss, slowing juniper growth during mild infestations and potentially killing plants during severe ones. Male moths are dark, hairy, with clear wings and a 1-inch wingspan, while yellow, maggot-likefemales lack wings. Larvae create carrot-shaped silk bags, which they carry as they feed.

Treatment: To prevent bagworm infestations, remove and destroy egg-filled bags in winter or early spring. For severe infestations or unreachable bags, apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) insecticide in spring when young larvae are active, as they are more susceptible. Spray in late afternoon or early evening for best results. Other effective insecticides include spinosad, acephate, bifenthrin, cyhalothrin, and cyfluthrin, and always follow label instructions.

Spruce Spider Mite

Identify: Spider mites are significant pests of junipers, feeding on plant sap with piercing mouthparts. This causes yellow speckling on needles, browning, & needledrop. Heavy infestations may produce fine webbing, and prolonged damage can kill the plant. While most spider mites thrive in hot, dry conditions, spruce spider mites peak in spring and fall but decline in summer due to predator activity.

Treatment: Natural predators like predatory mites, ladybugs, and other insects often control mite populations. Avoid insecticides unless absolutely necessary, asit can kill these beneficial predators, potentially worsening mite issues. Miticides,designed specifically for mites, are less harmful to beneficial insects. Regularly spraying plants with strong water can reduce mites.To assess mite infestations,tap a branch over white paper and check for crawling mites. If dozens are present, damage is likely. Monitor populations every 7–10 days. For control, use insecticidal soap or horticultural oil sprays, following all label instructions.

Juniper Scale

Identify: Symptoms of juniper scale infestation resemble those of spruce spider mites. Affected plants may appear discolored, with needles turning yellow or brown and branches showing little growth or dying back. Severe infestations can kill the plant within 2–3 seasons. Look for tiny, 1/8-inch scales, often clustered on needle undersides, and shiny, sticky honeydew on infested needles.

Treatment: Apply horticultural oil as a dormant spray in late winter or early spring to suffocate adult females. For crawlers, use insecticides like acephate,malathion, bifenthrin, cyhalothrin, or cyfluthrin. Always follow label instruction sand precautions.

Cedar-Apple Rust

Identify: Apple cedar rust, caused by Gymnosporangium fungi, affects junipers,including Eastern red cedar, and requires an alternate host like apple or crabapple to complete its life cycle. The disease spreads between junipers and apples/crabapples and can be severe when these plants grow near each other. On junipers, hard brown galls form on branch tips in summer. After spring rains, these galls produce orange, gelatinous spore-filled tendrils that can travel up to half a mile to infect apple and crabapple trees. On apples, yellow spots develop on upper leaf surfaces, producing spores in late summer that can spread up to 2 miles to infect nearby junipers.

Treatment: Prune out all galls from junipers and avoid planting apple or crabapple trees near Eastern red cedars. If necessary, use a fungicide containing mancozeb or propiconazole for control.

Japanese Maple Care Tips

Fri, 31 Jan 2025 22:08:39 GMT

Types of Japanese Maple:

Bloodgood: 15-20’ x 14-30’
Emperor I: 15' x 15'

Fireglow: 20' x 15'
Red Sentinel: 10-15’ x 6-8’

Sango Kaku: 20-25' x 10-15’

Tips

Japanese maples thrive in a balance of light and shade, which enhances their vibrant leaf colors and prevents sunburn. While they can tolerate full sun in mild climates, hotter regions require more shade and consistent watering to avoid leaf scorch. Protect them from strong winds and plant in well-drained soil. Avoid summer planting due to their sensitivity to heat; early spring or fall is ideal, depending on your climate. Japanese maples thrive in moderately to slightly acidic soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5.

How to plant Japanese Maple:

When planting keep your soil type in mind if your soil needs to be amended do so. Do not cover the bud onion. When planting make sure the root ball is above level ground by 2 inches to prevent root rot or fungus.

How to care for your Japanese Maple:

Fertilizing:

Apply a balanced fertilizer formulated for acid-loving plants in early spring before new growth appears. Avoid over-fertilizer & follow fertilizer instruction.

Pruning:

Prune Japanese maple is in late winter when the tree is dormant. For fine pruning for aesthetic purposes, wait until late spring after the leaves have emerged. When pruning, focus on removing dead or damaged branches, particularly from the tree’s interior, as well as any branches that cross or rub against each other. This promotes better air circulation & allows more light to reach the canopy. Make clean cuts back to lateral branches or buds for optimal results, and avoid drastic reshaping, which can create noticeable gaps in the tree. With Japanese maples, less is more. Take your time, remove only the dead branches, and let the tree maintain its natural beauty.

Pro Tips

Sprayer Use:

A pump-up sprayer is recommended.
Avoid leaving chemicals in the sprayer after use.

Seasonal Adjustments:

Reduce spraying during hot summer months following chemical instructions.

Watering Systems:

Avoid overhead watering to minimize fungal leaf issues.
Use drip irrigation as the best method for watering.

Common Issues with Japanese Maples

Brown & Curling in leaves

• Underwatering: Japanese maples need moist, well-drained soil. In hot weather, lack of water can cause leaves to dry out, brown, and curl.

• Overwatering: Too much water can suffocate roots, leading to wilting and browning despite wet soil.

• Excessive Sun: Some varieties tolerate full sun, but others need afternoon shade. Intense summer sun can scorch leaves, causing browning and curling.

• Pests/Diseases: Insects or fungal issues, though less common, can also harm leaves, leading to similar symptoms.

If your Japanese maple’s leaves develop crispy edges by fall due to a tough summer or occasional missed watering, there’s no need to worry. As long as the leaves were healthy for most of the year, the tree will shed them naturally and rejuvenate with fresh growth in the spring.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew spreads through the air and doesn’t require water to infect plants. It overwinters in soil debris and thrives in mild temperatures with high nighttime humidity. Infection typically occurs from mid-summer to fall, often causing early leaf drop in severe cases. Though mostly aesthetic, this disease is rarely fatal to plants.

Identify: Powdery mildew appears as white, dusty growth on leaf surfaces, with black fruiting bodies on the undersides of infected leaves.

Treatment: Powdery mildew can infect plants even in dry conditions, but good aircirculation helps prevent it. Prune overlapping, dead, or damaged branches, andspace Japanese maples 6–20 feet apart based on their mature size. Remove fallen leaves from infected trees to stop the pathogen from overwintering. Foryoung or stressed trees, consider using a registered fungicide as directed.

Root Rot

Root rot thrives in wet conditions from poor drainage, flooding, or over watering. Early symptoms mimic nutrient deficiencies or watering problems, including slow growth and yellowing or blackening leaves. Progressing to branch & root dieback, eventually killing the tree. Root rot pathogens can persist in soil & plant debris for extended periods.

Identify: Root rot is identified by decaying tissue at the soil line and roots, with the vascular cambium turning brown and mushy instead of green when bark near the lower trunk is peeled back.

Treatment: Preventing root rot is key. Avoid planting Japanese maples in areas with poor drainage, and amend heavy clay soils with organic matter. Water only when the soil is dry, and keep mulch away from the trunk. Remove and destroy infected plants. Fungicides can help prevent root rot but are not curative.

Verticillium Wilt

Verticillium Wilt remains dormant in the soil and enters through wounds in the roots or tree buttress, affecting the current year’s growth. It blocks water- conducting vessels, restricting water flow to the branches and leaves. The tree responds by further blocking these vessels with gums, worsening the restriction. While large trees may survive for years with mild symptoms, infected trees often die within 2 to 3 years.

Identify: Heavy seed production, smaller-than-normal leaves, & browning leaf margins. Often, only one side of the tree wilts. The wood under the bark of wilting branches shows discoloration: green-black in maples, brown in elms, & brown to black in black locust & other trees. The smallest branches may lack discoloration.

Treatment: There is no cure for Japanese maple infected with Verticillium wilt, but healthy, established trees may survive with care, especially if only old wood is affected. Water deeply during droughts, apply slow-release fertilizer in spring, & regularly prune dead or damaged branches. Mulch to promote health & avoid mowing over the tree’s roots to prevent unnecessary injury. Remove severely infected trees & replace them with Verticillium-resistant species, such as conifers.

Hydrangea Care Tips

Fri, 31 Jan 2025 21:40:10 GMT

Types of Hydrangea:

Endless Summer: 3-5' x 3-5'
Oak Leaf: 5' x 5'

Eclipse: 3-5' x 3-5'
Vanilla Strawberry: 6-7' x 5-6'

Tips

Planting in fall allows hydrangeas to establish strong roots before spring growth. In colder climates, plant earlier in the fall & water regularly during dry fall & winter periods. Early spring is also suitable, but avoid planting during summer heat or the hottest part of the day. Most hydrangeas prefer partial shade or sun, with morning sun & afternoon shade being ideal. Afternoon shade is crucial in hot, dry climates. Hydrangea flower color depends on soil:

pH 5.0–5.5(acidic): Blue flowers; 6.0–6.5+ (neutral to alkaline): Purple to pink flowers

Start by testing your soil pH, then adjust based on your desired color.

How to plant Hydrangeas:

When planting keep your soil type in mind if your soil needs to be amended do so. When planting make sure the root ball is above level ground by 2 inches to prevent rot root or fungus.

How to care for your Hydrangeas:

Fertilizing:

The best fertilizer depends on your soil and region, but a well-balanced fertilizer is usually ideal. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, as they can reduce blooming.

• Smooth hydrangeas (H. arborescens): Fertilize once in late winter or early spring.

• Oakleaf & Panicle hydrangeas (H. quercifolia & H.paniculata): Feed twice—once in spring and again inearly summer.

• Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla): Fertilizelightly three times during the growing season,starting in early spring.

Pruning:

The main form of care for hydrangeas is deadheading, which isn’t technically pruning. While it can boost blooms & maintain a tidy appearance, deadheading isn’t necessary for the plant’s health. Hydrangeas don’t need winter pruning & can be left untouched for seasonal. However, pruning depends on variety.

• Old wood bloomers (e.g., Mophead hydrangeas, including reblooming types) can be pruned in early fall after flowering.

• New wood bloomers (e.g., Panicle hydrangeas)should be pruned in late winter or early spring.

Pro Tips

Sprayer Use:

A pump-up sprayer is recommended.
Avoid leaving chemicals in the sprayer after use.

Seasonal Adjustments:

Reduce spraying during hot summer months following chemical instructions.

Watering Systems:

Avoid overhead watering to minimize fungal leaf issues.
Use drip irrigation as the best method for watering.

Types of Diseases

Botrytis Blight Fungus

Botrytis Blight targets flower buds, often killing them before they open. Infected flower parts can spread the fungus to leaves below. Early signs include water-soaked spots on flowers, followed by reddish-brown lesions.

Treatment: To prevent Botrytis Blight, maintain low humidity, ensure good airflow, and properly space hydrangeas. Water early in the day, focusing on the roots, not the leaves or flowers. Sanitize pruning shears with bleach, remove dead or damaged plant material, and treat persistent fungus with fungicides.

Cercospora Leaf Spot

Identify: Small brown or purple spots develop on lower leaves, enlarging with tan or silver centers and dark borders. The disease spreads upward via splashing water from rain or sprinklers, causing heavily infected leaves to drop.

Treatment: Remove and discard fallen leaves to reduce fungal spores. Avoid wetting foliage when watering. Treat leaves with Immunox, Daconil, or Natria Disease Control as directed, and reapply next summer to prevent recurrence.

Aphids

Identify: Aphid feeding can lead to leaf yellowing or distortion. They also excrete honeydew, a sugary liquid waste that can coat leaves and surfaces below. This sticky substance can promote the growth of sooty mold, a black fungal coating that, while not directly harming the plant, can reduce sunlight exposure, hindering photosynthesis. Additionally, ants are attracted to honeydew and often protect aphids from predators by grooming them to stimulate honeydew production.

Treatment: To manage an aphid infestation, use a strong water spray to dislodge them or apply insecticidal soap.

Hydrangea Rust

Identify: Hydrangea rust is easy to identify by the orange spots on the undersides of leaves, which cause yellowing on the top and eventually lead to leaf death. This fungal disease spreads through water splashing from rainfall or watering. Infected leaves will fall off as the disease progresses.

Treatment: To prevent hydrangea rust, avoid overhead watering. Watering at the base of the plant helps stop the disease from spreading. If the issue is mild, simply remove the infected leaves to prevent the rust from spreading. For more severe cases, apply a fungicide specifically designed to treat rust.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is caused by various fungi that thrive in sunlight but require moisture to spread. It is often more aggressive on shade-loving plants. Overwatering hydrangeas and neglecting garden cleanliness can promote the growth of this fungus.

Treatment: Remove and discard affected leaves or plant parts (avoid composting them). Applying a copper fungicide, available at garden centers, can help eliminate this fungal disease.

Root Rot

Container-grown hydrangeas, especially oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia), are highly susceptible to Phytophthora root rot. The pathogen can be introduced through contaminated stock, roots, crowns, debris, or potting media. Poor drainage and overwatering in containers can worsen the disease.

Identify: Root rot causes sudden wilting & yellowing of leaves. Infected roots &the crown at the soil line, as well as the stem above, may show brown discoloration.

Treatment: Root rot can be prevented through sanitation, proper cultural practices,, & chemical treatments. Key steps include good water management to avoid water-logging, grouping plants by container size & irrigation needs. Take cuttings from healthy plants & use fungicides or bio-pesticides to prevent infections.

Hosta Care Tips

Fri, 31 Jan 2025 21:10:16 GMT

Types of Hosta:

Albo Marginata: 18-24" x 40"
June: 12" x 30"

Loyalist: 12-18" x 24"
Stained Glass: 15" x 36-48"

Tips

Hostas are best planted in early spring or late summer/early fall, depending on your climate. Spring planting allows roots to establish before summer heat, while fall planting gives them time to settle before winter. Hostas thrive in shaded areas but can tolerate morning sun. Avoid planting them in locations with harsh afternoon sunlight. Hostas thrive in soil with a pH between 6.5 and 7.5, which is slightly alkaline to slightly acidic. Hostas thrive in moist, well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Avoid planting them in heavy clay soil, as it doesn’t provide the necessary drainage.

How to plant Hosta:

When planting keep your soil type in mind if your soil needs to be amended do so. When planting make sure the root ball is above level ground by 2 inches to prevent rot root or fungus.

How to care for your Hostas:

Fertilizing:

Hostas in moist, rich, shady soil need minimal fertilization. Feed them in spring as leaves emerge, but avoid late-summer feeding to prevent frost-damaged new growth.

Pruning:

Cut back hostas in the fall to encourage healthy spring growth. As temperatures drop, pests like slugs, rabbits, and deer may target the leaves. Prune after the first hard freeze, starting with wilted or brown foliage.

Pro Tips

Sprayer Use:

A pump-up sprayer is recommended.
Avoid leaving chemicals in the sprayer after use.

Seasonal Adjustments:

Reduce spraying during hot summer months following chemical instructions.

Watering Systems:

Avoid overhead watering to minimize fungal leaf issues.
Use drip irrigation as the best method for watering.

Types of Diseases

Slugs

Identify: Slugs and snails are common pests of hostas, causing large, irregular holes in the foliage and leaving telltale slime trails. These mollusks thrive in moist environments, hiding during the day and feeding at night.

Treatment: Prevent slugs from eating hosta leaves with remedies like coffee, beer, citrus, or eggshells. Natural predators such as frogs, toads, wrens, possums, and beetles can also help. Attract them by creating suitable garden habitats. Ammonia effectively kills slugs; follow the product’s instructions for best results. Apply in the evening when slugs are active, and avoid using it during extreme heat.

Heat Stress

Identify: Scorch causes browning along leaf margins and yellowing or darkening between veins. Affected leaves may dry out, turn brown, and become brittle. Similarly, sunburn affects the sun-facing parts of leaves, initially bleaching them before they turn brown and fall out. Planting hostas in direct sunlight increases the risk of sunburn.

Treatment: Minimize risk by planting hostas in full to partial shade and avoiding areas with intense afternoon sun. Mulch with shredded leaves, evergreen needles, or organic matter to keep the soil cool and moist.

Anthracnose

Identify: Irregular white to tan spots with brown borders may cause leaves to become tattered as centers fall out. This disease thrives in warm, wet conditions, so proper spacing is key for prevention. Similar issues include scorch, sunburn, and frost damage.

Treatment: To manage anthracnose effectively, combine strategies like early morning irrigation, keeping plants cool, and removing infected leaves. Use fungicides, such as chlorothalonil, iprodione, mancozeb, or thiophanate-methyl, in areas with recurring issues. Apply before symptoms appear and follow label instructions, adjusting frequency based on weather conditions.

Hosta Leaf Nematode

Identify: Hosta leaf nematodes are microscopic roundworms that feed & reproduce inside hosta leaves. Symptoms begin as yellow discoloration in late June, followed by chocolate brown streaks or patches bordered by veins. These areas appear on both sides of the leaf & only between veins. As the infestation progresses, the entire leaf turns brown and dries, with younger leaves less

affected than older ones.

Treatment: To prevent the spread of foliar nematodes, reduce leaf wetness, as they require moisture to move. Remove damaged leaves to decrease nematode populations and stop further spread. Dead leaves should also be removed and destroyed, as nematodes can survive in a desiccated state. Control is more challenging since nematodes can persist in crown tissue. Heat treatments can eradicate them, especially in small infestations. In cold climates, heat treatments

in fall followed by replanting are effective, while warmer climates may require late winter treatments to avoid breaking dormancy.

Southern Blight

Identify: Southern blight is a fungal disease that causes leaf bases to rot, leading to yellowing, collapse, and death of the leaves. When temperatures exceed 70°F,infected plants develop water-soaked stem lesions near the soil line, and leaves will detach easily when pulled. In high humidity, cottony mycelium forms around the stem base and soil. Sclerotia, resembling mustard seeds and ranging from white to reddish-tan or light brown, develop at the plant base and may form a crust on the soil.

Treatment: Fungicide drenches can be used as a preventative measure on ornamental plants, but they are not recommended for treating southern blight on hostas, especially in home gardens. The most important step is to remove infected plant material. To prevent southern blight in the garden, ensure that plants are purchased disease-free.

Holly Care Tips

Fri, 31 Jan 2025 20:36:11 GMT

Types of Holly:

Compacta: 2-3' x 2-3'
Nelly R Stevens: 15-25' x 10-15'

Skypencil: 3-5' x 6'
Dwarf Youpon Holly: 10-12" x 6-8'

Tips

Plant in partial to full sun, avoiding shaded or understory areas. Prefers well-drained, moist, fertile soil. Winterberry & blue hollies don’t respond well to shearing, so prune by hand once a year to manage long branches. Other hollies require minimal pruning but tolerate heavy cuts for formal hedges or topiaries. Prune in spring to control size or remove old branches for optimal berry production. Fertilize in spring & early fall with fertilizer for acid-loving plants & follow fertilizer label. Holly bushes prefer soil with a pH between 5.0-6.0, & certain fertilizers can help acidify the soil while feeding the plants.

How to plant Holly:

When planting keep your soil type in mind if your soil needs to be amended do so. When planting make sure the root ball is above level ground by 2 inches to prevent rot root or fungus.

How to care for your Holly:

Fertilizing:

The best times to fertilize holly are in spring & fall. Fertilize in spring when new growth starts, and again in fall once growth has stopped. Nitrogen promotes vibrant leaves, phosphorus strengthens roots, and potassium supports overall health. A balanced NPK ratio like 10-10-10 is ideal, along with micronutrients like iron and magnesium.

Pruning:

For evergreen hollies, prune in early summer to avoid damaging new growth from cool temperatures. Pruning may result in fewer berries on female hollies, as it removes most of the summer flowers that turn into winter fruit.

Pro Tips

Sprayer Use:

A pump-up sprayer is recommended.
Avoid leaving chemicals in the sprayer after use.

Seasonal Adjustments:

Reduce spraying during hot summer months following chemical instructions.

Watering Systems:

Avoid overhead watering to minimize fungal leaf issues.
Use drip irrigation as the best method for watering.

Types of Diseases

Black Root Rot

Identify: Water mold fungi like Phytophthora cinnamomi cause root rot in hollies planted in poorly drained or overly wet areas. Planting too deep or over-mulching can also contribute. Early symptoms include yellowing leaves, early leaf drop, slow growth, and twig dieback. As the disease progresses, limbs may wilt, and a brown-to-black streak may form from rotting roots to the affected branches. The root system continues to deteriorate, often leading to the plant’s death.

Treatment: To Hollies under stress are more susceptible to root rot than healthy plants. Choose hollies suited to your local climate and soil conditions, and avoid introducing pathogens by purchasing plants with healthy roots and good foliage. Proper care, such as proper fertilization, moisture control, and good drainage (e.g., raised beds), can reduce disease risk. Japanese hollies are particularly prone to root rot in poorly drained soils. Fungicides can prevent infection but won’t cure it, follow label instructions.

Leafminers

Identify: The adult female lays eggs in young leaves through puncture wounds, which can cause leaf deformation. The eggs hatch in about four days, and the larvae tunnel between the leaf surfaces, leaving yellowish-brown trails that often widen into blotches. Their position inside the leaf makes them resistant to many insecticides. Natural predators include parasitic wasps and birds. American holly (I. opaca) cultivars are especially prone to leafminer damage.

Treatment: For light infestations, homeowners can handpick and remove affected leaves. Foliar systemic insecticides like acephate or spinosad, when used according to instructions, can be sprayed in May to control larvae in mines. Alternatively, a soil application of dinotefuran or imidacloprid can control larvae inside leaves. Apply these treatments in early spring for season-long protection. Dinotefuran acts faster than imidacloprid for quicker pest control. Always follow

label instructions and precautions.

Scale

Identify: Plants may show signs of water stress, with yellowing leaves followed by leaf drop. In cases of heavy infestation, plant health declines, leading to limb or branch death, and potentially the death of the plant. Inspect nearby woody plants for similar infestations.

Treatment: Light scale infestations can be scraped off or pruned out, with prunings disposed of immediately. For heavier infestations, apply a 2% horticultural oil spray in early spring to kill adults and eggs before new growth starts. Horticultural oil suffocates scales, offering effective control.

Southern Red Mite

Identify: Feeding symptoms include light yellow speckling on leaves, which may eventually turn bronze and drop. Severe infestations can lead to webs covering both leaf surfaces and branch tips. Southern red mite populations typically peak in spring and fall, with reduced activity during midsummer heat. Check for mites by inspecting the undersides of leaves in early spring or shaking a branch over white paper.

Treatment: Mites can be managed with regular strong water sprays. Insecticidal soap is effective when applied early, before populations grow too large. Homeowners can also use horticultural oil, bifenthrin, or acephate, following label instructions, to control southern red mite.

Root Rot

This fungus mainly impacts the root system, weakening plant vigor. Above-ground symptoms include stunted terminal growth, shortened internodes, and interveinal chlorosis. Infected roots are dark brown to black, typically starting at the tips. Plants with severe root rot damage often decline and die during dry periods.

Treatment: The fungus can persist in the soil for years, even without susceptible plants. Black root rot develops in conditions of high soil moisture and low temperatures. Fungicide drenches are not typically recommended for landscapes, as infected plants cannot be cured.

Gardenia Care Tips

Fri, 31 Jan 2025 20:13:16 GMT

Types of Gardenias:

August Beauty: 5' x 3'
Frost Proof: 5' x 4'

Jubilation: 3-4'' x 3-4'
Radican: 1-2' x 3-4'

Tips

Gardenias flourish with four to six hours of sunlight each day. In warmer climates, shield them from the harsh late afternoon sun; morning to midday light is ideal. The ideal time for planting is in the fall. Gardenias thrive in acidic soil with a pH of 5.0 to6.5, enriched with organic matter and well-draining loamy texture. To optimize soil conditions for your gardenia bushes. Adjust the soil pH to increase acidity. Incorporate organic materials such as compost, manure, ground bark, or sphagnum peat moss.

How to plant Ferns:

When planting keep your soil type in mind if your soil needs to be amended do so. When planting make sure the root ball is above level ground by 2 inches to prevent rot root or fungus.

How to care for your Ferns:

Fertilizing:

Fertilize gardenias in early spring after the final frost. During the growing season, feed them every three to four weeks using an acidic, slow-release fertilizer like fish emulsion, blood meal, or coffee grounds.

Pruning:

To encourage continuous blooming, deadhead faded or dying flowers be removed about two-thirds down from the initial bloom. For younger gardenias, you can prune to shape the plant or remove straggly branches and spent flowers. However, be cautious not to prune during the winter months when buds are developing, as this can hinder the next season's bloom.

Pro Tips

Sprayer Use:

A pump-up sprayer is recommended.
Avoid leaving chemicals in the sprayer after use.

Seasonal Adjustments:

Reduce spraying during hot summer months following chemical instructions.

Watering Systems:

Avoid overhead watering to minimize fungal leaf issues.
Use drip irrigation as the best method for watering.

Types of Diseases

Bud Drop & Yellow Leafs

Bud Drop: Gardenias may drop unopened buds when stressed. Common stressors include insect infestations (thrips or aphids), nematode root damage, improper watering, poor drainage, excessive fertilizer, insufficient light, extreme temperatures, or dry, hot weather.

Yellowing Leaves: Older gardenia leaves naturally yellow and drop in early spring before new growth. If yellowing occurs at other times without signs of pests or disease, stressors like improper watering, poor drainage, low light, cool soil temperatures, or nutrient deficiencies may be the cause.

Sooty Mold

The fungus is not infecting or harming the plant but grows on its surface, feeding on honeydew excreted by sap-sucking insects like aphids, scales, whiteflies, leafhoppers, and mealybugs. These insects feed on plant sap and excrete the excess sugar as honeydew.

Identify: It’s easily diagnosed by wiping away the black fungal growth with a moist paper towel or peeling it off to reveal undamaged plant surfaces. While primarily cosmetic, severe cases can block sunlight, reducing photosynthesis &plant vigor. Combined with insect feeding, this can weaken the plant, making it more vulnerable to pests, diseases, and environmental stress.

Treatment: To address sooty mold, focus on controlling the sap-sucking insects causing the issue, not the fungus. Start by identifying the infested plant & insect. Check plants above the gardenia, as honeydew from heavily infested overhanging trees or taller plants can drip onto plants, furniture, decks, or cars.

Stem Canker

Cankers are dark, oval, or sunken stem lesions with raised edges that may swell into galls over time. Commonly found on gardenia stems near soil level, they can also affect leaves and roots. The fungus gardenia enters through wounds, remaining localized near the canker. In high humidity, it produces spores spread by rain or overhead irrigation and survives winter within the canker.

Identify: wilting of leaves on part or all of the plant. Leaves on affected branches become a duller green color, may yellow, & then drop. Flower buds on affected branches may drop without opening. Overall stunting of the plant can occur.

Treatment: Preventing root rot is the most effective management strategy. Inspect nursery stock roots before purchasing, and ensure the planting site has proper drainage. For poorly draining areas, consider creating a raised bed. When planting, position the plant 2 inches above ground level. If a plant has died from Phytophthora root rot, replace it with a resistant species to avoid future issues.

Root Rot

Fungi & water molds naturally exist in soil and can infect plants through contaminated soil, water, or plant debris. Overwatering, poor drainage, & high humidity create optimal conditions for these pathogens to thrive & cause root rot.

Identify: A healthy root system features white, non-woody feeder roots. In cases of root rot, feeder roots may appear brown, decayed, or be entirely absent. The outer tissue (cortex) of rotting roots easily pulls away, exposing the thread-like core or stele.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew thrives in warm, humid conditions and spreads rapidly between plants. Some fungi need high humidity to germinate, while others can do so in low humidity. Spores can also spread through contaminated pruning tools, garden equipment, or clothing.

Identify: Powdery mildew appears as whitish to grayish powdery spots or patches, often covering the upper leaf surface but sometimes found underneath. It typically develops in late summer. In gardenias, the disease mainly affects young leaves & shoots, causing deformed leaves & buds, yellowing, & leaf drop.

Treatment: Space plants properly to improve air circulation & reduce humidity, limiting fungal infections. Remove diseased tissue, dispose of fallen leaves, & add mulch. Apply fungicides early for effective prevention against powdery mildew.

Fern Care Tips

Fri, 31 Jan 2025 19:37:02 GMT

Types of Fern:

Kimberly Fern: 24" x 24"
Macho Fern: 36" x 24"

Foxtail Fern: 2' x 2-3'
Japanese Painted Fern: 18-24" x 18-24"

Tips

Ferns thrive in bright, indirect light. They benefit from a few hours of gentle morning sunlight or softly filtered light through tree canopies. Avoid exposing them to direct sunlight, as it can scorch their delicate fronds, particularly during the intense heat of summer. Ferns thrive in moist, shady conditions similar to their rainforest habitat. Keep soil consistently damp but not waterlogged, adjusting watering as needed for hanging baskets or pots, which dry out more quickly. Ferns thrive in deep, loose soil enriched with organic matter. Most ferns prefer neutral to slightly acidic soil, with an ideal pH range of 6.0 to 7.0.

How to plant Ferns:

When planting keep your soil type in mind if your soil needs to be amended do so. When planting make sure the root ball is above level ground by 2 inches to prevent root rot or fungus.

How to care for your Ferns:

Fertilizing:

Ferns require minimal fertilizer, especially if the soil is enriched with compost. For garden ferns, fertilize once annually in the spring. Outdoor container ferns can be fertilized in spring and again in midsummer if they appear unhealthy. Avoid fertilizing in the fall, as it may do more harm than good.

Pruning:

Prune evergreen ferns in late winter or early spring, just before new growth begins, to maintain their beauty and health. This timing, typically late February to early March in zone 8b,allows for the clean removal of old fronds without harming emerging shoots. Avoid pruning too early to protect the plant from winter damage, and avoid cutting too late to prevent stunting new growth.

Pro Tips

Sprayer Use:

A pump-up sprayer is recommended.
Avoid leaving chemicals in the sprayer after use.

Seasonal Adjustments:

Reduce spraying during hot summer months following chemical instructions.

Watering Systems:

Avoid overhead watering to minimize fungal leaf issues.
Use drip irrigation as the best method for watering.

Types of Diseases

Tip Necrosis

Frond tips may shrivel and brown due to uneven watering or low humidity. While unsightly, this is typically not serious.

Identify: Frond tips start to yellow before turning brown and dry. If left untreated, the entire frond may become affected.

Treatment: Trim crispy frond tips above a node. For underwatered plants, resume proper watering. For overwatered plants, remove damaged foliage, replant in well-draining soil, and repot container plants in a better-draining container before allowing them to dry for a few days. Resume watering afterward.

Damping Off

Damping off is a fungal disease affecting young seedlings, caused by water molds and soil-borne fungi. It can quickly kill entire trays of seedlings, with fern seedlings (prothallus) being especially vulnerable due to their need for warm, humid conditions that promote fungal growth.

Identify: New seedling stems may develop black areas where they touch the soil and appear tapered. As the fungus spreads, stems collapse, and white fuzzy spores cover the soil. If unchecked, it can quickly ruin an entire tray of seedlings. Affected seedlings must be discarded and regrown in clean containers with fresh seed-starting mix.

Treatment: Improve air circulation around seedlings, use fresh seed-starting mix to prevent spores, and thoroughly clean all pots before sowing seeds. Additionally, avoid overcrowding seedlings, ensure proper drainage, and consider using a fungicide if necessary to prevent fungal growth.

Fungal Leaf Spot

Fungal leaf spot thrives in wetter, cooler seasons and may cause slow dieback of heavily affected fronds. However, if only a few fronds are impacted, the plant will survive and produce new growth. Herbaceous ferns will regrow fresh fronds the next season. This condition is usually cosmetic, affecting mainly young or weakened plants not in ideal growing conditions.

Identify: Small brown or black spots will develop on both sides of fern fronds. Unlike the spore-producing sporangia, fungal leaf spots are not raised or evenly distributed on the underside of fronds. As the infection spreads, entire fronds may become covered in brown or black blotches.

Treatment: It’s recommended to remove affected fronds as soon as the disease is identified. Mulching with organic compost or finely shredded arborist chips helps keep developing fronds off the soil and reduces soil splash during watering. Limit overhead watering during cool, damp weather, as this is when fungal leaf spot spores are most active and likely to spread.

Crown and Stump Rot

Identify: The top growth of fronds declines abruptly, and upon closer inspection, issues with the root system and black, rotting areas of the fern crown (where new fronds emerge) are evident. The garden soil may be waterlogged, boggy, or have a foul odor due to insufficient air circulation.

Treatment: Remove the plant and either relocate it or address drainage issues in the garden bed. Replant the fern with the crown (where the fronds emerge) at least an inch above soil level to improve air circulation. Avoid piling mulch around the crown & use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to prevent water from collecting &sitting in the crown.

Fern Scale

Female fern scales, Pinnaspis aspidistrae, produce armor that is flat, oyster- or pear-shaped, light brown, with a paler brown crawler cast skin at the narrow end. Occasionally, the second-stage armor is lighter than the adult armor.

Identify: Infested ferns are most visibly damaged by the presence of male snow-white second-stage armors, which contrast with the dark green foliage. Feeding causes yellow spots on certain fern cultivars and liriope. Males do not feed beyond the second stage of development.

Treatment: Horticultural oils, used according to instructions, control fern scales without harming ferns. Two treatments, two weeks apart, are usually effective. Since ferns are sensitive to pesticides, apply them when the foliage will dry before exposure to direct sunlight.

Crape Myrtle Care Tips

Fri, 31 Jan 2025 19:15:05 GMT

Types of Diseases

Sooty Mold

Identify: Leaves and stems may appear black and dirty due to sooty mold, a fungus that grows on the honeydew produced by sap-sucking insects like aphids, scales, mealy bugs, and white flies. This mold signals an underlying insect infestation.

Treatment: Sooty mold is unsightly but harmless to plants. Address the issue by controlling sap-sucking insects like aphids. Encourage beneficial insects like lady beetles or remove aphids with a strong water spray. To clean sooty mold, rinse leaves with a dish soap solution (4 oz. per gallon of water), wait a few minutes, then rinse thoroughly.

Powdery Mildew

Identify: White or gray powdery patches appear on leaves, flowers, and shoots, causing distortion and stunted growth. Flowers may not open. The disease thrives in shady, damp, crowded areas with poor air circulation, especially in humid nights and dry, mild days common in spring and fall.

Treatment: To control powdery mildew, plant resistant crape myrtle varieties in full sun and remove sprouts (suckers) at the base, as they are highly susceptible. Prune diseased twigs and branches if only a few shoots are infected to prevent fungal spread. If chemical control is needed, use a fungicide with myclobutanil, propiconazole, thiophanate-methyl, or copper. Follow label instructions, as multiple applications may be necessary.

Leaf Spot

Identify: This disease occurs in warm, moist conditions, causing yellow spots (⅛ to¼ inch) on the upper leaf surface and white-grey fungal growth on the underside. It can lead to significant defoliation in late summer and fall, especially insusceptible cultivars.

Treatment: Ensure good air circulation and avoid overcrowding plants. If the disease is severe enough to require chemical treatment, thiophanate-methyl ormyclobutanil, used for powdery mildew, will help control Cercospora leaf spot. Follow all label instructions when applying chemicals.

Bark Scale

Identify: Crape myrtle bark scale (CMBS) appears as white or gray waxy crusts on stems, large twigs, and trunks, particularly at branch crotches and pruning sites. They feed under loose bark, making control difficult. These scales produce large amounts of honeydew, leading to black sooty mold growth on the plant’s leaves, branches, and trunk.

Treatment: The most effective chemical control for crape myrtle bark scale is a spring soil drench with dinotefuran. This systemic insecticide, available as concentrates or granules, moves through the plant and provides control for up to a year. Apply in spring when new growth begins. Alternatively, spray for crawlers in late April-May and again in late summer. Follow all label instructions when applying chemicals.

Crape Myrtle Aphids

Identify: Crape myrtle aphids are small, pale yellowish-green insects with blackspots on their abdomens, ranging from 1/16 to 1/8 inch in length. Aphids feed on tender new leaves by sucking plant sap, which is high in sugar. This results in the excretion of honeydew, a sugary liquid that can coat the leaves. High aphid populations can cause extensive honeydew buildup, which attracts sooty mold fungi and various insects like ants, wasps, and flies.

Treatment: Aphids reproduce quickly, making them difficult to control with insecticides. Even if one survives, a new colony can form rapidly, and insecticides may harm beneficial predators. If necessary, homeowners can use insecticides like insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, pyrethrins, neem oil, permethrin, cyfluthrin, cyhalothrin, acephate, or malathion. A spring soil drench of imidacloprid can also control aphids and provide longer-lasting protection. Always follow label instructions when using pesticides.

Camellia & Sasanqua Care Tips

Fri, 31 Jan 2025 19:01:53 GMT

Types of Camellia:

Crimson N’ Clover: 8-10' x 5-6'
Shi Shi Sasanqua: 4-5' x 6-8'

Greensboro Red: 6-10' x 5-6'
White By The Gate: 10-12" x 6-8'

Tips

Camellias thrive in slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5-6.5) and may show stress, like yellowing leaves, in alkaline soil. They require well-drained soil, as they cannot tolerate water-logged conditions. Camellias grow best in partial shade, with morning sun and dappled afternoon shade, especially when young. Mature plants, with a dense canopy that cools their roots, can tolerate more sun. Winter shade can reduce cold damage in zones 6 and 7. Newly planted camellias and those in drought conditions need regular watering, but established plants (over three years old) generally require minimal supplemental water, provided the soil drains well.

How to plant:

When planting keep your soil type in mind if your soil needs to be amended do so. When planting make sure the root ball is above level ground by 2inches to prevent root rot or fungus.

How to care for your Camellia:

Fertilizing:

Fertilize camellias with an acid-based fertilizer starting a month after blooming, applying every eight weeks until buds form. Avoid fertilizing after August to prevent late growth that won’t harden before winter. Always follow label instructions.

Pruning:

Prune camellias after they finish blooming. Remove dead or weak wood and thin dense growth to allow flowers to open fully. Shorten lower branches to promote upright growth, and trim top growth to make the shrub bushier. Make cuts just above the scar marking the previous year’s growth, as this encourages three to four dominant buds to develop.

Pro Tips

Sprayer Use:

A pump-up sprayer is recommended.
Avoid leaving chemicals in the sprayer after use.

Seasonal Adjustments:

Reduce spraying during hot summer months following chemical instructions.

Watering Systems:

Avoid overhead watering to minimize fungal leaf issues.
Use drip irrigation as the best method for watering.

Types of Diseases

Tea Scales

Tea scale is the most common insect pest affecting both japonica and sasanqua camellias, as well as hollies. While light infestations are common and plants can still thrive, heavy infestations can lead to unattractive plants with stunted growth and fewer blooms.

Identify: Leaves develop irregular yellow blotches with white, fuzzy growth on the undersides, caused by male tea scales. Female scales appear as small, brown, oyster-shaped covers, about 1/10 inch long, and are stationary as they feed on sap. Using a hand lens, you may spot tiny yellow crawlers or immature scales, as well as yellow eggs beneath the brown female scales.

Treatment: To manage this pest effectively, start by pruning to open up the plant’s canopy, which improves air flow and reduces the humid conditions pests thrive in. This simple step helps create an environment less conducive to infestation. Additionally, applying horticultural oil is an effective treatment to control the pest population. Horticultural oil works by smothering pests and their eggs, disrupting their life cycle.

Dieback

Identify: Affected branches show sudden yellowing and wilting of leaves, with branch tips often dying. Gray blotches may form on the bark and stem, followed by sunken cankers that girdle the stem. This leads to a loss of vigor, wilting, and eventual death of the plant parts above the canker.

Treatment: This disease is typically not very destructive. Some branches may die, but the plant usually recovers. Pruning is usually sufficient, though applying a copper fungicide can help if needed.

Leaf Gall

Identify: Leaf gall, a fungal disease, causes thick, discolored, fleshy leaves to form in early spring after bud break. These galls, initially greenish-pink to rose, shrivel, blacken, and fall off by late spring. While typically harmless, the disease can severely deform young nursery plants if uncontrolled.

Treatment: To prevent worsening the disease, remove and destroy young galls before spores are released. Clean up fallen leaves and avoid wetting foliage when watering. Gall formation thrives in humid, moist, and shady conditions. Chemical treatments like mancozeb offer limited effectiveness and must be applied before infection—always follow label instructions.

Yellow Mottle

Identify: Camellia yellow mottle virus spreads through root grafts and propagation of infected plants. It causes irregular yellow mottling or splotchy patterns of varying sizes and shapes on leaves, with some leaves turning entirely yellow. Infected flowers may develop irregular white blotches.

Treatment: No chemical treatment exists for this virus. To prevent its spread, only plant virus-free specimens sourced from reputable garden centers.

Algal Leaf Spot

Algal leaf spot, caused by the parasitic alga Cephaleuros virescens, commonly affects camellias and other shrubs and trees. The spots are slightly raised and can be circular or blotchy with wavy or feathered edges. They range in color from crusty gray-green to greenish-brown, but during summer reproduction, they appear velvety red-brown due to spore production. Heavy infestations can lead to premature leaf yellowing and drop.

Treatment: Algal leaf spot is typically not a serious issue. For mild cases, remove and discard affected leaves and branches, and clear fallen leaves from the ground. Improve plant health by ensuring proper sunlight, water, and fertilizer, and enhance air circulation by thinning nearby vegetation. Avoid overhead watering. In severe cases, apply a copper fungicide, following label instructions.

Tea Scale

Identify: Often found on the undersides of leaves and sometimes on stems. These small, immobile insects pierce plant tissue to suck sap, weakening the plant. Symptoms of heavy infestations include yellowing leaves, reduced blooms, leaf drop, twig dieback, and, in severe cases, plant death. Scales can resemble small fish scales, making them difficult to detect until populations become damaging.

Treatment: Tea scale rarely resolves on its own. Manage infestations with horticultural oil or systemic insecticides for lasting protection. Prune dense foliage after flowering to improve air circulation and spray coverage. Apply oil sprays in fall, winter, or spring when temperatures are 45–85°F, thoroughly covering the leaf undersides. Repeat applications as needed, following label instructions.

Handy Seasonal Tips for Your Plants and Garden

Fri, 31 Jan 2025 18:32:33 GMT

At Twitty Nursery, Inc., we’re committed to helping you keep your garden in top shape year-round. Our DIY Tips page is designed to provide you with expert advice on what to do with your plants for each season. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting, these handy tips will guide you in maintaining a vibrant and healthy garden throughout the year.

Winter

Spray dormant oil or copper fungicide at the beginning of winter.
Trimming Hosta after the first hard freeze is good practice.
The ideal time to prune your Japanese maple is in late winter while the plant is dormant
Usually, Hydrangeas are pruned in late winter or early spring to promote new growth.

Cut back ornamental grasses before new growth emerges in the spring
Watering plants thoroughly the night before a freeze can also help protect plants in the winter, excluding agaves.
Prune trees before leaf buds.
Water plants and trees as needed.
Start prepping flowers beds.

In February, prepare to fertilize your lawn and do heavy pruning on your Roses on Valentine's Day.

Spring

Spray dormant oil or copper fungicide at the beginning of Spring.
When the temperature starts reaching over 70 degrees you can start fertilizing.
For more detailed aesthetic pruning for Japanese maple, wait until late spring after the leaves have emerged.

Fertilize lawn in late spring
Drench Crape Myrtle with Ferti-Lome Tree and shrub drench or with products with active ingredients of imidacloprid.

Summer

Pay more Attention to soil moisture levels and water more regularly if needed in the summer.

Fertilize once again in late summer and water in well.

In July, prepare to fertilize and water your lawn

Fall

Apply 3-4” of mulch to cover the roots of trees and shrubs. Be sure to keep mulch about 6” away from the trunk.

Fall is the perfect time to plant new trees and shrubs. Just be sure to keep those newly planted plants well-watered until the rain comes. In the South, wait to plant trees until the high heat subsides

Azalea Care Tips

Fri, 24 Jan 2025 15:57:24 GMT

Types of Azalea:

Encore: 3'x4'
Formoza: 6-8' x 5-6'

Perfecta Mondo: 2.5' x 3-4'
Ruffle: 2-4'x2-4'

Tips

Azaleas thrive in partial shade or dappled sunlight, with morning sun being ideal. Too much sun can stress them, while too little may reduce flowering. They prefer moist, well-drained, acidic soil(pH 4.5–6.0). Avoid waterlogged conditions due to their shallow roots. Naturally acidic soil is ideal,but neutral or alkaline soil may require amendments like aluminum sulfate, sulfur, acidic fertilizer,or iron sulfate. Gentle options include coffee grounds, pine needle mulch, or sphagnum peat moss. In milder regions, azaleas can be planted year-round, but spring and fall are best. Fall planting is ideal, allowing roots to establish before supporting new growth and flowers in spring.

How to plant Azaleas:

When planting keep your soil type in mind if your soil needs to be amended do so. When planting make sure the root ball is above level ground by 2 inches to prevent rot root or fungus.

How to care for your Azaleas:

Fertilizing:

Fertilize azaleas in spring after they finish blooming. A midsummer boost may help in rainy conditions but avoid fertilizing during peak summer heat. Follow fertilizer’s instructions.Acidic fertilizer is ideal, especially for less acidic soil.

Pruning:

To prune azaleas for a natural look, cut stems at varying heights inside the plant in a“W” pattern, always trimming at branch points.This allows sunlight to reach the interior, preserving their “cloudlike” shape. Step back occasionally to assess progress. Regular pruning removing dead, damaged, or diseased branches. Encourages blooming when done at the righttime. Maintains shape and size, preventing overgrowth. Improving air circulation to reduce disease risk.

Pro Tips

Sprayer Use:

A pump-up sprayer is recommended.
Avoid leaving chemicals in the sprayer after use.

Seasonal Adjustments:

Reduce spraying during hot summer months following chemical instructions.

Watering Systems:

Avoid overhead watering to minimize fungal leaf issues.
Use drip irrigation as the best method for watering.

Types of Diseases

Yellow Leaves

Bright yellow leaves on azaleas are usually due to natural leaf molting. Evergreen shrubs like azaleas lose leaves gradually, not all at once, but often triggered by new leaf buds in the fall. Nutrient deficiency (likely nitrogen or iron) can be a cause, but lace bugs can also be a reason.

Treatment : Ensure proper drainage, top dress with organic matter, and test the soil. If needed, apply a general-purpose or azalea-specific fertilizer in spring. Both issues are easily treatable.

Leaf Rollers

Identify : Azalea leaf miners only affect azaleas (Rhododendron spp.), causing two types of damage. Initially, mines are pale and hard to see, but they later form brown blisters on the leaf surface. As the larvae mature, they emerge from the leaf tissue, curl the leaf edge for protection, and continue feeding, damaging the tip. Severely damaged leaves yellow and drop, resulting in an unsightly plant.

Treatments: To manage a leaf roller problem, prune and dispose of infested leaves and branches to reduce their population. Regularly inspect plants and manually remove caterpillars or rolled leaves. Encourage natural predators like birds and beneficial insects to help control the issue. Additionally, promote plant health through proper watering, fertilization, and care to reduce susceptibility to infestations.

Lace Bug or Spider Mite

Most azaleas experience light lace bug infestations with minimal harm, but heavy infestations can bleach or bronze leaves, stunting growth and reducing blooms. These infestations are more likely in full sun or drought-stressed plants.

Identify: Lace bugs (adults and nymphs) insert stylets into leaf stomates to suck sap, causing bleached, stippled patches that resemble spider mite damage.

Treatment: For quick control, apply a foliar systemic insecticide like acephate orimidacloprid. For longer-lasting prevention, use a soil-applied systemic treatment,such as imidacloprid-based products like Fertilome or Bonide. Follow label instructions.

Aphids

Identify : Look for discolored foliage, black sooty mold caused by honeydew, and white egg sacs in branch forks (May–June). Reddish crawlers appear from late June to July.

Treatment : Apply insecticide to the entire plant to eliminate infestations and follow up with routine applications as directed on the product label to prevent recurrence.

Bark Scales

Identify : Yellowing leaves, dying branches, and honeydew deposits on bark andleaves, which lead to sooty mold fungus. White scale crusts become visible as thebark darkens. Severe infestations, though rare, are typically not fatal if treated.

Treatment : Spray the entire plant with insecticide to eliminate aphids and prevent further damage. Follow up with routine applications as directed by the product instructions.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is common on deciduous azaleas, especially young plants in shaded, damp conditions. It appears as powdery white growth on leaves, often worsening in cool, moist weather. The fungi spread via windborne spores and over winter in bud scales, leading to reinfection.

Symptoms : Powdery white growth on leaves, sometimes covering them entirely. Black specks may appear in late summer or fall. The disease thrives in humid, crowded, and shaded areas.

Treatment: Treat when symptoms first appear on new growth. Late summer treatments are unnecessary for deciduous azaleas. Avoid sulfur-based products in temperatures over 85°F or shortly after applying oil sprays.

Root Rot/ Water Mold

Encore Azaleas are susceptible to root rot, or “water mold,” especially in standing water during warm weather. This fungus causes yellowing leaves and wilting.Prevent it by mulching with pine bark and mixing it into the soil to improve drainage and oxygen levels.

Symptoms : Early signs include slow growth, dull foliage, and midday wilting.Advanced stages show twig dieback and drooping, inward-curled olive-greenleaves.

Treatment : Phytophthora root rot is difficult to treat. Remove and destroy affected branches, then apply a fungicide to the soil, following label instructions carefully.

twittynursery

What Can I Plant Next?

Moisture-Loving Beauties for Your Garden

Shrubs:

Trees:

Simplify Your Space with Easygoing Plants

Shrubs:

Trees:

Block the View, Not the Beauty

Shrubs:

Trees:

Blueberry Plant Care

Sunlight:

Soil:

Watering:

Fertilizing:

Pruning:

Pollination:

Mulching:

What are Bagworms?

How to Treat:

What chemicals should I use?

Alternative Bagworm Control

Ensure Your Plants are Winter Ready

Water In Plants

Do Not Fertilize

Avoid Pruning

Mulch Plants

Cover Plants

Do I Need to Repot My Plant?

Things to Look For:

Is it acceptable for some plants to become rootbound?

Should I Trim Circling Roots?

When is the Best Time to Repot?

Tree and Shrub Planting

How to Plant:

How to Grow & Care for Your Garden

Choosing the Right Plant

Light Conditions

Climate

Space

Soil & Drainage

Maintenance Level

Choose the Right Soil

Understand Your Plant's Needs

Consider Soil Type

Watering

Check Soil Moisture

Time of Day

Adjust for Plant Type

Watch for Signs of Over- or Under-watering

Lighting

Full Sun

Partial Sun/Partial Shade Shrub

Full Shade Shrub

Fertilizing

Know Your Plant's Needs

Choose the Right Fertilizer Type

Timing

How to Fertilize ﻿

Apply Fertilizer Seasonally

Spring:

Summer:

Fall:

Winter:

Application Method

Granular Fertilizer:

Liquid Fertilizer:

Slow-Release Fertilizer:

Amount

Fertilizing

Use the Right Tool

Know the Plant

Timing is Key

Observe Growth Patterns

Pruning Techniques

Thin Out Crowded Areas

Cut Just Above a Node

Angle Cuts

Remove Dead or Diseased Wood

How to Fertilize

Climbing: 3' x 14-30'
Drift: 1.5' x 3'

Grandiflora: 4' x 3'
Hybrid Tea: 3-6' x 2-3'

Blue Atlas: 40-60’ x 30-40’
Canaerti: 620-50’ x 8-15’

Eastern Red Cedar: 35-40’ x 15-20’
Taylor: 30' x 3'

Bloodgood: 15-20’ x 14-30’
Emperor I: 15' x 15'

Fireglow: 20' x 15'
Red Sentinel: 10-15’ x 6-8’